Spain
Mallorca Beyond the Beach
The Serra de Tramuntana runs the length of the north-west coast and contains almost nothing that appears in the island's reputation. Drive it slowly and Mallorca becomes a different place entirely.
The Ma-10 is the road. It runs from Andratx to Pollença, takes two hours without stopping, and should take three days.
Where to stop
Banyalbufar for the terraces and the sea below them. Deià for the writers’ mythology and one very good swim at the cala. Sóller for the tram, the oranges and a base with actual restaurants. Lluc for the monastery and the silence.
Every cove worth swimming in requires a walk down that you will regret on the way back up. Go anyway.
The coves
Cala Tuent, Sa Calobra if you can face the road, Cala Deià for lunch at the water. Go early — parking, not crowds, is the limiting factor.
When not to go
July and August, unless you like the island at its most expensive and its least itself. May is close to perfect and October is warmer than it sounds.
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